A CHILDHOOD MEMORY
by Giovanna Di Gangi
by Giovanna Di Gangi
Childhood
memories, especially those that remind us of some particular food or dish, are
very often related to grandparents. And so is it for my memory.
It’s not a dish,
actually, that recalls to my mind the vivid image of my grandmother. I can
smell tomato sauce and basil, but what I am talking about is something quite
different than the plain sauce. It’s what in the Sicilian culinary tradition is
called “estratto” or, as Granny Mimì used to say “astratto”.
This Sicilian
word refers to the tomato sauce that, after having been cooked for a very long
time, was laid on a tray and dried in the sun. It was then stored for the
winter, into a jar, covered with olive oil. Its use in the Sicilian recipes is
what turns a good dish into an excellent one, a masterpiece.
This delicious
smell activates in my brain an immediate connection with the word summer.
I can see the
sun rays in the late afternoon, their golden light and their warmth that
finally starts to be pleasant after the hot temperature of the day. As usual, I
am spending my summer vacation at my Grandmother’s house in Petralia Sottana in the Madonie mountains. I am 8 years old.
I can hear the
voices of my friends playing in the street: our endless tournaments. Nothing to do with sport, of course. We just used
some chalk to draw a track on the street and slowly pushed with our thumbs and
forefingers a variable amount of fruit-juice caps from the starting to the
arrival point of the track, regardless of being in a sweat in such torrid days.
My friends are
waiting for me, they have already started our favorite game but I’m not ready
to go with them.
Granny Mimì is
on the balcony, she removes the veil that protects the astratto from the
annoying flies and starts stirring the sauce. I can’t resist: I just have to
pinch a little bit of astratto and quickly put it in my mouth. I swallow it at
once before being noticed by Grandma. She never lets me stir the sauce. She
says that if she if she did, by the end of the summer we would not have any
left for the winter. And she is right!
I have never cooked
or used astratto after my Grandmother’s death. I have seen it in the street
markets but I don’t dare to buy it. I am afraid I could be disappointed by its
taste, for sure so different from the one of my memories.
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